Sample text from Daytrips London

Sample text from Daytrips London

Trip 29

*Salisbury and Stonehenge

The cathedral city of Salisbury is a relative newcomer as English towns go. It was first settled in 1220 when the local bishop moved his cathedral down from the hilltop stronghold known as Sarum. Dating from prehistoric times, this earlier site was of great importance to the Romans, who called it Sorviodunum. Later becoming the Saxon settlement of Searoburh, it acquired a Norman castle and a cathedral during the 11th century. Frequent clashes between the clergy and the military, as well as harsh conditions imposed by a dry, windswept location, led to the establishment of a new town in the more hospitable meadows along the River Avon, just two miles to the south. After this, Old Sarum gradually died out. Its abandoned cathedral was demolished in 1331 and the stones reused for building a wall around the new town's cathedral close. By the 16th century the site was completely deserted although, as the rottenest of the Rotten Boroughs, it continued to send two members to Parliament until 1832.

The new town of Salisbury has always been a peaceful place that escaped the vicissitudes of history. Since its cathedral was one of the few to be based on a chapter of secular canons rather than a monastery, it quickly became a worldly center with all of the features of a thriving provincial capital. Salisbury today is an extraordinarily beautiful town made all the more fascinating by its proximity to the mysterious Stonehenge, one of England's most popular tourist attractions.

GETTING THERE:

Trains operated by SouthWest depart London's Waterloo Station at hourly intervals for the 1.5-hour ride to Salisbury, with return service operating until mid-evening. Schedules are reduced on Sundays and holidays. There is bus service for Stonehenge from Salisbury.

By car, Salisbury is 91 miles southwest of London via the M3 and A30 highways. To get to Stonehenge, take the A345 north to Amesbury, then the A303 and A344 west to the site. Stonehenge is about 10 miles from Salisbury. Old Sarum is along the way, about two miles north of Salisbury on the A345.

PRACTICALITIES:

Salisbury may be visited on any day, although some sights are closed on Sundays. The local Tourist Information Centre, Ph. (01722) 334-956, Internet: www.salisbury.gov.uk, is on Fish Row behind the Guildhall on Market Place. A colorful outdoor market is held there on Tuesdays and Saturdays until mid-afternoon. Salisbury is in the county of Wiltshire, and has a population of about 39,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

The town is famous for its ancient pubs. Some of the best of these, and restaurants too, are:

Old Mill (Town Path, West Harnham) A delightful old mill by the River Nadder, with a great view and good food. Ph. (01722) 327-517. ££

Haunch of Venison (1 Minster St., near St. Thomas's Church) This famous pub restaurant dates from the 14th century. Ph. (01722) 322-024. ££

New Inn (41 New St., near North Gate) For non-smokers only, a fine pub serving good food in a 15th-century building. Ph. (01722) 327-679. ££

Harper's (6 Ox Row, by Butcher Row at the Market Place) Home-cooked English/Continental dishes in a friendly upstairs restaurant overlooking the Market Place. Ph. (01722) 333-118. X: Sun. lunch. £

Asia Restaurant (90 Fisherton St., between St. Thomas and the station) Good Indian fare at low prices. Ph. (01722) 327-628. £

Le Café Parisien (Oatmeal Row, Market Square) Light French café fare for lunch; sandwiches and the like. ph. (01722) 412-356. £

Michael Snell (8 St. Thomas Sq., near St. Thomas's Church) Light meals in a coffee shop, with homemade sweets. Ph. (01722) 336-037. X: Sun. £

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Depending on your arrival time, it is probably best to head out for Stonehenge immediately, getting there before the crowds get too thick. Buses leave from the train station (1) several times daily, and also from the bus station near the Market Place (11). Those driving their own cars should just follow the directions in "Getting There," above.

*STONEHENGE (2), near Amesbury, Ph. (01980) 624-715. Open daily; late Oct. to mid-March, 9:304; mid-March through May, 9:306; JuneAug. 97; Sept. to mid-Oct. 96; mid-Oct. to late Oct. 9:305. Adults £4, seniors and students £3, children £2. Snack bar. Gift shop. Audio tour. (Handicap accessible).

Stonehenge is a massive circular group of standing stones, erected in several stages between the Late Neolithic and Middle Bronze ages. It seems to have been a temple of sorts, but anything beyond that is speculation. What is truly marvelous about the place is that you can believe anything you want about it, no matter how outrageous, and no one can prove you wrong. Go right ahead and indulge your imagination. Perhaps Merlin really did build it by magic, or maybe it actually was an astronomical observatory, or even a temple of the Druids. Who knows? One thing is certain, however. What you get out of it is what you put in. To approach this site without preparation is to see a pile of rocks and little else. Pamphlets explaining some of the theories are sold near the entrance, although advance homework will make you visit more rewarding. Currently, there are plans afoot to move the A344 highway and the visitor center some distance from the site, restoring some of Stonehenge's mysterious natural setting.

On the way back you should try to make a stop at the ruins of Old Sarum, the original Salisbury, described in the introductory paragraph above. From there return to the train station and start exploring "new" Salisbury.

Leaving the train station (1), walk down to the River Nadder and cross it on a footbridge. A footpath from here leads through delightful countryside to the ancient Harnham Mill (3), parts of which may date from the 13th century. Now an inn, its bucolic setting is a scene right out of a Constable landscape. All along the way there are wonderful views of the cathedral.

Return to Queen Elizabeth Gardens (4) and follow the map across the 15th-century Crane Bridge. Turn right at High Street and stroll through North Gate (5), a 14th-century structure that once protected the bishops from rebellious citizens. The Mompesson House (6) on Choristers' Green, built in 1701, has an exquisite Queen Anne interior with notable plasterwork and an elegant carved oak staircase. There is also a delightful walled garden. Today, Mompesson House is owned by the National Trust. Open late March through October, Sat.Wed., noon to 5:30. Last admission at 5. Adults £3.40, children £1.70, garden only 80p. Ph. (01722) 335-659.

From here it's only steps to:

*SALISBURY CATHEDRAL (7), The Close, Ph. (01722) 555-120, Internet: www.salisburycathedral.org.uk. Open daily 86:30, remaining open until 8:15 from mid-May to mid-Sept. Donation: Adults £3.50, seniors and students £2.50, children £1.50. Tours. Cafeteria. (Handicap accessible).

Salisbury Cathedral was built over a very short time span, from 1220 to 1258, which accounts for its remarkable architectural unity. It is the purest example of the Early English style to be found anywhere in the kingdom. The graceful tower was added a century later and, at 404 feet, is the loftiest medieval spire on Earth.

At first glance, its interior seems somewhat disappointing for so majestic a structure. This is due to an overzealous spring housecleaning in the 18th century that stripped it of much of the medieval clutter that make other churches so fascinating. Yet, there are many interesting things to see, starting with the 14th-century clock mechanism at the west end of the north aisle. Still in operating condition, it is thought to be the oldest in England and perhaps in the world. The West Window contains some good 13th-century stained glass, as does the Lady Chapel at the east end.

Stroll out into the Cloisters, the largest in England, and visit the adjoining *Chapter House, whose treasures include one of the four existing original copies of the Magna Carta, as well as 13th-century sculptures illustrating scenes from the Old Testament. Roof and tower tours, offering great views, are held several times a day.

A stroll around Cathedral Close makes a pleasant break before continuing on. The Bishop's Palace, now occupied by the Cathedral School, and the Old Deanery are particularly fine 13th-century buildings within the precincts. Be sure to visit the Salisbury and South Wiltshire Museum (8) in the King's House along West Walk. Its displays include models and relics from Stonehenge and Old Sarum, along with items of local history, porcelains, 17th-century rooms, an old doctor's office, clothing, Turner watercolors, and the like. Open Mon.Sat. 105, and on Sun. in July and Aug., 25. Adults £3, seniors £2, children 75p. Restaurant. Ph. (01722) 332-151. (Handicap accessible).

You may also be interested in seeing The Wardrobe (9), a military museum of the Royal Gloucestershire, Berkshire and Wiltshire Regiment. Recalling life in a county regiment, it is located in another nearby historic house and features beautiful waterside gardens. Open AprilOct., daily 104:30; Feb.March and Nov.Dec. Tues.Sat. 104:30. Adults £2.20, seniors £1.90, children 50p. Tea room with light lunches. (Handicap accessible).

Follow North Walk to the Malmesbury House (10), an historic mansion that grew out of a 13th-century canonry. Now restored to its 18th-century splendor, it played a role in the Civil War and was home to a direct ancestor of the present queen. Charles II stayed here, as did the composer Handel, whose ghost (or perhaps someone else's) still haunts the premises. Visits, with or without apparitions, may be made by prior arrangement. Ph. (01722) 327-027.

Handel gave his first public concert in England in a room above the adjacent St. Ann's Gate. Pass under this and turn left on St. John's Street, following the map to the Market Place (11). Markets have been held here twice a week since 1361, a custom that continues today.

Cut through to Silver Street. The beautiful hexagonal Poultry Cross (12) was first mentioned in 1335 as the spot where poultry was sold. Around the corner, approached through alleyways, is St. Thomas's Church (13), one of the most interesting buildings in Salisbury. Founded in honor of Thomas à Becket about 1220, it was rebuilt in the 15th century and has a marvelous medieval fresco known as the Doom Painting, depicting the Last Judgement, above its chancel arch. This was whitewashed over during the Reformation and not rediscovered until the 19th century. The colorful area around the church is the perfect spot to wind up your tour.

If you decided not to go to Stonehenge, you might want instead to visit:

*WILTON HOUSE (14), Wilton, Salisbury, Ph. (01722) 746-720, Internet: www.wiltonhouse.com. Located 2.5 miles west of Salisbury on the A30. Frequent bus service from central Salisbury on routes 60 or 61 (hourly on Sun.), or drive or take a taxi there. Open late March through Oct., daily 10:305:30, last admission at 4:30. Adults £6.75, seniors £5.75, children £4. Cafeteria.

One of England's most attractive stately homes, Wilton is filled with outstanding art and has acres and acres of lovely gardens. Henry VIII gave the first Wilton House to William Herbert in 1541, who soon thereafter became the Earl of Pembroke. Destroyed by fire, it was rebuilt by the great architect Inigo Jones for the fifth earl. The present resident is the 17th Earl of Pembroke. Visits begin with a video, followed by a tour of the kitchen. Shakespeare dedicated the first folio of his plays to the third earl, so there's a statue of him in the hall. Wilton's most noted sight is the extravagant *Double Cube Room with its vast Van Dyke portrait of the Pembroke family. There is an American connection here as well, as this is where General Eisenhower planned much of the Normandy invasion of 1944. On the lighter side, check out the delightful display of some 200 costumed teddy bears in their own miniature house and stables. Don't miss the amazing *Palladian Bridge, spanning the River Nadder in the landscaped parkland.

Map and Text© 2000 by Earl Steinbicker